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The camera has many photo modes, which can be seen through the dial wheel on the shoulder of the camera, full automatic (A), program automatic (P), aperture priority (A), shutter priority (T), manual block (M), what's the difference between them?

When taking pictures, one mode is bound to be chosen. Rookies often don't understand the difference between different modes, don't know how to choose, or only choose one.

Among them, [aperture first] and [shutter first] are the two most commonly used modes for photographers. Let's take a look at their usage scenarios and selection basis. If you have learned these two, you can master other models as well.

If it is a pure rookie, it is recommended to read this article first: aperture, shutter, observation, the basic knowledge that beginners must read!

A: this is a fully automatic mode. The camera adjusts the parameters by itself. You only need to press the shutter to get a decent picture.

PRV P file is the program automatic exposure, which is equivalent to a semi-automatic mode, in which you can set parameters such as ISO and exposure compensation, regardless of aperture and shutter configuration.

The Av:A file is the aperture priority mode, you have to set the aperture yourself, and the camera automatically adjusts other parameters.

Tv: this is the shutter priority mode. You have to set the shutter time yourself, and the camera automatically adjusts other parameters.

M: manual mode, all the parameters need to be set manually.

Aperture priority (Av) aperture can control the depth of field, that is, the degree of falsification. If I want a big virtual effect, I must choose a large aperture. For example, take a picture of a portrait and want to vanish the background completely; for example, take a flower and want to melt the background completely.

Be careful to use a large aperture so as not to find some places missing after you enlarge the photo. If I shoot the scene, need to be clear before and after, absolutely can not be virtual, then must choose a small aperture. For example, if I take a group photo and shoot a meeting scene, I can't vanish the last row of people.

The diffraction of light caused by a small aperture will form a special star effect. If I want to shoot the stars, I must choose a smaller aperture, which is more commonly used between F11~F16.

The aperture also affects the quality of the picture, and the intuitive feeling is whether the photo is "clear and sharp", so photographers rarely use too small an aperture, such as F22, which usually stops at F16. (in fact, if you don't shoot a very fine scene like hair, there's nothing wrong with a small aperture.)

Aperture can also control the amount of light into the environment, such as dark light environment, such as when night falls, indoors at night, be sure to open a large aperture. Otherwise, the photo taken has a lot of noise (caused by insufficient light intake), and there may be a false shadow (caused by automatic shutter extension).

The shutter priority (Tv / S) shutter determines the shooting time, and if the object moves during this time, the photo will appear as a shadow. So when judging the shutter, the main consideration is whether I want to drag the shadow.

If I want to take pictures of high-speed moving objects and freeze them, I must use a very short shutter. For example, to photograph a speeding train and shoot the splash, if the ordinary shutter shows a false shadow, you can consider setting the shutter manually, such as 1thumb 4000 seconds, 1pm 8000 seconds.

If I want to shoot the slow door effect, such as the drawing effect of running water, waterfalls and waves, the cars at night into tracks, and the flow of people in the busy city, I have to set a shutter with a lower speed, such as 1 second, 5 seconds, 10 seconds.

Most of the scenes should be clear and there should be no shadows. The following two scenes are easy to drag, so make sure the shutter is safe enough.

The first is the telephoto lens, when we shoot with a focal length of 200 mm, although we close the distant scene (enlarge the picture), but also magnify the wobble, slight hand shaking, will become violent shaking in the camera. The most terrible thing is the faint illusion, which can't be seen when taking a picture. When I go home and enlarge the picture, I see it all burnt. At this time can not let the shutter speed is too slow, generally set to the reciprocal of the focal length, such as 200mm, use 1max 200 seconds or faster.

The second is the darker light, the camera will automatically extend the shutter time in order to increase the amount of light, resulting in a false shadow in the photos taken. At this time, it is necessary to set the shutter time, do not let the photo false, the setting principle is also the reciprocal of the focal length, this value can ensure that the photo is clear.

You must have heard of how to adjust the exposure (Ev). The aperture can control the amount of light, and the shutter time can control the amount of light. In theory, if you increase the aperture, the amount of light input will also increase, and the photo will be brighter. But in fact, after increasing the aperture, the brightness of the photo does not change. Why?

Because after the increase of the aperture, the camera will automatically lower the shutter or sensitivity, although the light input of the former increases, but the light input of the latter two decreases, and the amount of light input is almost unchanged after synthesis.

This is also the principle that the camera automatically adjusts the parameters-to ensure that the exposure is normal. When you manually adjust one item, the camera automatically adjusts the other, so "aperture first" and "shutter priority" are both semi-automatic modes.

If you want to change the amount of light input, adjust the "exposure compensation". For example, if I want to shoot brighter, then set the exposure compensation to + 1, and if I want to be brighter, set it to + 2. After you set it, the camera will understand what you mean, and it will change when you adjust it automatically.

This article comes from the official account of Wechat: photography Research Society (ID:shoujiPhotography)

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