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2025-01-18 Update From: SLTechnology News&Howtos shulou NAV: SLTechnology News&Howtos > IT Information >
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Shulou(Shulou.com)11/24 Report--
The Korean culture of instant noodles is inextricably linked with China, Japan and the United States.
I always thought Xin Haicheng could only shoot animation, but I didn't expect that he was particularly good at poking lung tubes. Some time ago, he came to China to promote "Bell Bud Tour" and conveniently posted his dinner on the first day of promotion in Beijing:
After sharing the joy of his meal, Xin Haicheng made another cut and revealed his dinner in South Korea:
Some people say that Xin Haicheng is deliberately "weird in yin and yang". I think it makes no sense at all. After all, the way to treat guests is for the host to bring out what he thinks is the best food for the guests. From this point of view, South Koreans invite Xin Haicheng to eat instant noodles, at least at the state banquet level.
Hot pot, which is 800 per capita, is inferior by comparison.
Even South Korean netizens themselves said, "if you just look at the photos, ramen looks better!" ".
I think these netizens may not be tough. After all, South Korea ranked first among consumers of instant noodles per capita for eight years in a row, and it was not until 2021 that it was overtaken by Vietnam.
I have done a special issue on Korean cuisine before. Here I would like to briefly summarize the composition of Korean food:
Korean food is mainly composed of traditional cuisine and modern Korean cuisine. The former, including kimchi, cuisine, barbecue and so on, is mainly influenced by China (including Mongolia), while the latter is more influenced by Japan and the United States.
In short, the history of Korean cuisine is almost a colonial history, and instant noodles can be regarded as a masterpiece. Because the Korean culture of instant noodles is inextricably linked with China, Japan and the United States.
All this has to start with the food "ramen". I dug a hole in the history of ramen and the three East Asian countries before, and it just happened to be filled in here.
01 as we all know, although they are all called ramen, ramen are three different things in China, Japan and South Korea.
Ramen in our country is more like a craft. In theory, as long as it is made of dough, it can be called ramen. One of the most popular is Lanzhou beef noodles that spread all over the country.
Japanese-style ramen actually has nothing to do with hand-pulling, but noodles made by a noodle machine. It is usually served with a thick soup base, as well as side dishes such as barbecued pork, seaweed, poached eggs and so on. It is like a happy ramen in Naruto, which is typical.
So if you really want to break the spirit of craftsmen, Chinese ramen chefs should be the god of ramen per capita.
As for South Korea, anyone who has watched Korean TV dramas should know that ramen is instant noodles, and what we are most familiar with is Xinla noodles. In "Please answer 1988", when you want to eat ramen, there will be a scene of cooking instant noodles in a small brass pot.
I also mentioned in the issue of "Japanese Fast Food" that Japanese-style ramen originated in China and was called "Chinese soba noodles" in early Japan, corresponding to "Japanese-style soba noodles".
Compared with the light Japanese-style soba noodles, what is the advantage of ramen?
If we look at the development of food culture around the world, we will find that there is a common feature in the process of industrialization and urbanization: with the transfer of a large number of labor from rural areas to cities, these new populations urgently need some foods with low prices and sufficient calories.
For Japan, this kind of food is ramen, similar to Japanese fried dumplings. Especially after Japan announced to host the Olympic Games in 1959, a new wave of large-scale civil construction was launched. Millions of young workers have moved from the countryside to big cities such as Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya, and ramen such as cheap and convenient sources of calories have become their first choice, and there is even a carbon-water combination of ramen / fried dumplings + rice.
In addition to population mobility and structural changes, another key factor contributing to the popularity of ramen in Japan is the United States.
After Japan's defeat in World War II, the United States became the de facto controller of Japan. At this time, Japan's economy was depressed, the rice harvest was poor, and it was caught in a serious food crisis. The victorious country originally intended to think that Japan deserved it, as long as it maintained a minimum standard of living.
However, a chaotic Japan has caused trouble to the management of the United States, and a stable Japan is more in line with the long-term interests of the United States. So under MacArthur's lobbying, the United States finally agreed to provide food aid to Japan, a large amount of which included wheat.
Originally, Japan is a nation that eats rice, but it does not produce much wheat at home, and flour products are not the mainstream on the dinner table. But at this time, if you want any bicycles, just have something to eat.
The beginning of the Cold War and the needs of the domestic economy have prompted the United States to take food aid as a long-term plan, and wheat is an important tool of this plan.
In July 1954, the United States Congress passed the first bill to guide food aid, the Agricultural Trade and Development Act (Act 480). The Bill has three main objectives:
First, global wheat prices fell in 1953 and there was a huge surplus of US wheat reserves. In order to solve this problem, the grain merchants set their sights on Asia. Their idea is that if the whole world eats bread like us, there will be no worries about selling the rest of the wheat. Asia, with rice as its staple food, is obviously the biggest potential market. As a result, the initial targets of the program are mainly focused on Asia:
Second, global food shortages became a common phenomenon after the war, and food aid helped to shape humanitarian brilliance. Not only that, in the struggle between the United States and the Soviet Union, by dumping wheat to Japan and other Asian regions, they can be firmly tied to their own ship to avoid falling to the Soviet Union.
Third, food is the most important thing for the people, and if they master the grain of a country, they will grasp the lifeblood of the country. Bill 480 made Japan dependent on American food for quite a long time.
Food aid from the United States can be said to transform the Japanese diet in all aspects. For example, it is stipulated in the Act that the United States can even dominate school lunch plans, so in 1954 Japan formulated the rules and system of school feeding in the form of the School feeding Act, and many schools provided meals. It's bread made from American wheat.
During this period, although Japan and the United States mobilized domestic experts to vigorously promote remarks such as the backwardness of the traditional diet and the harmful effects of eating rice, they hoped to speed up the transformation of the Japanese diet and consume more American flour.
Interestingly, although the American plan is to want the Japanese to eat bread and eat more westernized food. But in the end, the Japanese did not choose bread as their staple food, and a large amount of flour was made into Chinese foods such as noodles and dumplings. As a result, ramen has become mainstream.
In the face of the dumping of the United States and the shortage of food, the national character of Japan made them give up the traditional rice temporarily, but insisted on the more Asian pasta.
Therefore, the "instant ramen" invented by Baifu Ando in 1958 conforms to the trend of the times.
On the one hand, this kind of food can consume a lot of excess flour. On the other hand, fast food represented a kind of urbanization and trend at that time, and the combination of ramen and ramen made Riqing's instant ramen a new middle class choice.
It is worth mentioning that, unlike what we now think of as instant noodles without nutrition, in the context of that era, instant noodles initially focused on nutrition, but also because the flour promotion was deeply rooted in the hearts of the people.
03 and the situation in South Korea is very similar to that in Japan.
Because the peninsula is not suitable for growing wheat, the staple food of the local people has always been rice, and wheat flour is expensive, so noodles made from wheat flour are a luxury food that can only be eaten on special occasions such as adult ceremonies and weddings.
In the 1960s, with the advent of the baby boom, South Korea's population increased sharply, but rice production failed to keep up, leading to a shortage of rice and rising rice prices. In order to reduce rice consumption, Park Chung-hee government began to carry out the "mixed powder food encouragement campaign".
The so-called mixed food encourages exercise, which refers to the addition of a mixture of other grains to rice, while flour is flour products. Since 1956, the United States has provided South Korea with surplus crops, just to make up for the flour gap.
Although this sport is said to be encouraging, it actually adopts a lot of coercive measures. For example, since 1969, the sale of rice food has been banned from 11:00 to 5 p.m. on Wednesdays and Saturdays. This day is also designated as a rice-free day. If the ban is violated, the restaurant will be closed for a month to six months.
Even students' lunchboxes are required to mix grains in a certain proportion, and if they are found to be carrying pure white rice, they will be reprimanded and corporal punishment.
At the same time, the South Korean government has also vigorously promoted the disadvantages of eating only white rice, even claiming that it will lead to poor judgment and is very likely to reduce intelligence. This kind of propaganda is almost exactly the same as in Japan at that time, it can be said that there are two flowers blooming, separated by a strip of water.
Because of the relationship between the rice shortage and Act 480, not only in terms of publicity, but also in South Korea, like Japan, even the change in diet is on the same path as Japan.
At that time, Koreans did not fully accept the westernization of staple food, but still retained their love of rice. Cheap wheat is made into a variety of snack foods and Chinese noodles to make up for the shortage of rice.
For example, we often see spicy Stir-Fried Rice Cake in Korean stores. Originally, the traditional rice cake is made of glutinous rice and eaten with soy sauce and beef. It is a relatively high-end court dish.
But in the 1960s, flour became the main ingredient for making rice cakes. These flour cakes are pulled longer and longer, making it easy to stew in chili sauce, absorb the sauce, and then sell it on the street. So although it is called Stir-Fried Rice Cake, it is actually cooking rice cakes.
This kind of rice cake is quite in line with the food requirements of that era: it is cheap, can provide calories quickly, and is very convenient. These two kinds of demand are the main theme of material shortage, economic scarcity and large number of immigrants in the city.
The origin of Stir-Fried Rice Cake's practice, there is a folk saying that Grandma Ma Fulin, the inventor, once ate in a Chinese restaurant and accidentally dropped the rice cake on noodles soybean paste, only to find it very delicious. Then came the idea of Stir-Fried Rice Cake with hot sauce.
Noodles soybean paste, eaten by Grandma Ma Fulin in Chinese restaurants, has also become popular in South Korea because of saving rice and wheat dumping. Gonghchun, the Chinese restaurant that originally made noodles soybean paste, is a high-end restaurant, but cheap flour has led to the emergence of more small Chinese restaurants selling simple foods such as noodles soybean paste.
Driven by the noodle-mixing movement, Koreans who can't buy rice in restaurants are flocking to Chinese restaurants that sell noodles. Similarly, the cheap, fast and calorie noodles soybean paste became the memory of a generation of Koreans, so much so that the food, which originated in China, eventually became the national cuisine of South Korea.
Noodles are strongly linked to China, even leading South Korea to say that "if you can make noodles, you can cook Chinese food." to some extent, this cheap food has squeezed the living space of other traditional Chinese restaurants in South Korea.
In addition to Stir-Fried Rice Cake and noodles soybean paste, instant ramen, which was already popular in Japan, was naturally in line with the Korean food choices at that time. So in 1963, Sanyang Food Industry introduced the technology of Riqing and launched South Korea's first package of instant noodles-Sanyang ramen. That's why South Korea calls instant noodles ramen.
However, it is said that because Sanyang ramen initially used Riqing technology, and Riqing relied on chicken-flavored instant noodles in Japan, Sanyang ramen is also chicken-flavored, which is not in line with Korean tastes.
I think this statement is doubtful, and the most likely reason is that the chicken-flavored instant noodles are a little lighter and can not meet the needs of South Koreans at that time. After all, later, Koreans love fried chicken so deeply that they don't seem to be interested in the taste of chicken.
This can also be confirmed from Park Chung-hee's statement that after eating instant noodles for the first time, Park Chung-hee said, "We Koreans like to eat spicy and salty taste. I hope there is more chili powder in it." Since then, instant noodles began to gradually adapt to Korean tastes, and in 1970, in conjunction with the mixed noodle movement, Sanyang launched an advertising campaign that "ramen is the second largest rice".
Still, like Japan, bread has not become a staple food for Koreans. Instead, ramen has replaced the shortage of rice as the son of the version-except that ramen in Korea is fast food.
04 now rely on Sanyang, who was once popular with turkey noodles, used to be the leader of South Korea's instant noodles, until a young man named Xin Chunhao challenged it.
Xin Chunhao is the younger brother of Shin Kyuk-Ho, the founder of Rakuten Group. After graduating from university, Xin Chunhao was assigned to his own group as an executive in 1958. In that year, Ando Baifu invented instant ramen. Xin Chunhao was keenly aware that there must be a huge market for this food, so he proposed to make his own ramen, which was strongly opposed by Shin Kyuk-Ho, and cracks began to appear between the brothers.
In 1965, Xin Chunhao left his brother to set up his own Rakuten Food Industry Company and launched Rakuten ramen to compete with Sanyang. But at this time, Rakuten ramen is just a pirated version of Sanyang ramen in the eyes of South Koreans. It was not until the later launch of the "Hand-Pulled Noodles with Beef" product that Korean instant noodle soup was mostly the foundation of beef flavor, and various instant noodle companies also began to produce their own beef-flavored instant noodles, laying the groundwork for a future storm.
In 1975, Xin Chunhao first used the name "Nongxin" to launch "Nongxin ramen". It is accompanied by an advertisement for Nongxin ramen, which is brainwashed with the cheerful "elder brother first, younger brother first" BGM, which has become the memory of a generation of Koreans through the interpretation of brotherly affection.
But ironically, outside the advertisement, the contradiction between Xin Chunhao and his brother Shin Kyuk-Ho has reached an irreconcilable stage. Shin Kyuk-Ho banned his brother from using the name "Rakuten", so in 1978, Rakuten Food Industry changed its name to Nongxin.
Eight years later, Nongxin launched the spicy "spicy noodles", and the king of Korean instant noodles was officially born. This Xin is Xin Chunhao's surname, and the Chinese characters mean "spicy". It can also be regarded as killing two birds with one stone.
At this time, the Chun Doo-Wan government was just hosting the 1986 Seoul Asian Games and the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games. In order to prove to the world the development of South Korea over the past 30 years, and to promote South Korea, Chun Doo-Wan established "spicy" as the representative taste of Korean food.
Nongxin, as the designated supplier of ramen noodles for two sports events, relied on this spicy craze to make the newly born Xinla noodles an instant hit. This leads to all kinds of scenes of eating bubble noodles in "Please answer 1988".
The biggest scandal in the ramen market broke out in South Korea in the second year of the Seoul Olympic Games. An anonymous letter was sent to the Seoul district attorney's office. The letter contains information about some companies using industrial butter to make ramen.
This "butter storm" has caused widespread controversy in South Korean society. Almost all instant noodle manufacturers, including Sanyang, have been affected. Only Nongxin, who uses palm oil, has become the biggest beneficiary of this storm. No matter what the truth of the storm is, Xinla Noodle is no longer invincible and firmly sits on the throne of South Korean instant noodles.
Even though South Korea has already passed the crisis of rice shortage, its eating habits have changed dramatically. Instant noodles have become the national food of South Korea, so much so that South Korea once became the world's largest consumer of instant noodles.
My next point of view is more personal, you can listen to it selectively.
From a historical point of view, Koreans like to eat instant noodles, like Japan, due to rice shortage and American aid. But it is hard to explain why South Koreans still love instant noodles deeply after the economy has improved.
When I was a child, I was once obsessed with instant noodles. After all, for children, this kind of food with heavy flavor is really attractive. So for a time, I didn't understand why it was difficult to express the protagonist's life in TV dramas, so why should we show it by eating instant noodles every day. At that time, I thought it was a fairy day to eat instant noodles every day.
And as far as I know, there are not a few people who had similar ideas with me when I was a child.
However, when you grow up, this idea naturally disappears. Although I occasionally crave instant noodles, it certainly won't be used as a staple food every day. Even if Xinla noodles do taste good, it is still instant noodles and can't be eaten more.
So I think another reason is actually three words: there is no choice.
This can be seen from the attitude of China and South Korea towards instant noodles. The Chinese call it instant noodles, and the focus is on convenience and cheapness. Most of the time, it is an alternative food, as long as you have a choice, you will soon give up instant noodles.
China's instant noodle market broke out in the 1990s, with population mobility as the background. But even manual workers will not take instant noodles as a staple food every day. Because in addition to instant noodles, there are plenty of other foods to choose from.
This is also why I am not optimistic about the high-end instant noodles business, because the price is a little higher, why do I want to eat instant noodles? Including what instant noodles canteen is full of gimmick business, make instant noodles out of flowers, once the heat is over, it will be cold.
But for South Korea, there may really be no choice. The average person can eat instant noodles twice a week, indicating that the choice of food at the same price may be limited.
I remember seeing a picture of an e-sports player stuffing his suitcase with instant noodles when he came to China for fear that there was no food in China. So maybe in their minds, instant noodles are really the most delicious food.
Reference:
"ramen: national cuisine and the reconstruction of postwar Japan"-- George Salter
The Food Strategy of the United States to Japan after World War II and its influence-- the editorial Department of World History
I'm sorry, I'm sorry, I'm sorry.
I don't know. I don't know.
Stir-Fried Rice Cake, South Korean's "national snack"-- Global Times
I don't know. I don't know. I don't know. I don't know.
The fresh Wild History of Korea in the Diet
This article comes from the official account of Wechat: IC Lab (ID:InsightPlusClub)
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